Guide for sewing machines



Jufiy 31, 1923- 1,463,258 J. J. DRAKE GUIDE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 16, 192i 2 sham-sheet 1 "TNESSES' "INVENTOR QM Joim J Drake ATTORNEY 1.463.258 J. J. DRAKE sum: FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 16. 1921 2 Sheets-Sheet .2

WITNESSES' INVENTOR' I Jolzzz J Drake gyx whd ATTORN EY Patented J uly 31 1923.

entree{stares 1,463,258 rarest cr tic-e.

JOHN J. nnAKn-eremzABE r-H, new JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO rim SINGER mnnurne- TUBING COMPANY, or ELIZABE H, NEVI JERSEY, acortroanrron on NEW JERSEY. r

GUIDE roe snwme MACHINES.

' Application al a June-16,1921. serial No. 477,870.

To allwhomz't'mdy concern:

Be itknown that I, JOHN-J. DRAKE,3 citizen of the United States, residing at Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State of s New Jersey, have-invented certain new and useful Improvements in Guides .for Sewing Machines, of which the following is aispe'cification, re-ferencebeinghad therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in guides tor directing cross-bar edging to the stitch-forming mechanism of sewing machines and more particularly for guiding the cross-bar edginglforming par-t of what are 15 commercially termed Bon-Ton-Iyysweats bands. p

The Bon-Tonlvy sweat-band consists of a sweat'stripof leather or other suitable material to one edge of which is secured a braid having along one of its margins a cross-bar edging projecting beyond the sweat strip. vA welt-strip -for enclosing anelastic cord may or may not be stitched to the sweat-strip simultaneously with the braid, V

the primary feature of these sweat-bands being the cross-bar edging which projects beyond the sweat-strip and the free head of I which is secured to a hat at the juncture I of the side and brim portions thereof, in such a manner that the sweat-strip affords a cushioned grip upon the head of the wearer and also afiords a ventilating device. These sweat-bands are well known commercially and theirapplica-tion to hats was described in the U. S. patent.to.J.1T aylor, No. 760,087, dated May 17, 1904. Difficulty has been ex perienced, however, in stitching the sweat- .edging to hats, as will be appreciated when it is borne in mind that the free head of the edging is ex'tremely narrow and that consequently it is a difficult problem to guide the edging so: accuratelyas to correctly secure the free' .bead thereof to obtain the desired effects: This ,difliculty, as V heretofore experienced,necessitated the stitching of these sweat-bands to hats by hand, which so retardedthe work of attaching'these sweats tb hats as to make the attaching process slow and tedious and making the manufacture of these hats comparatively costly. The present invention :has primarily for its object .to provide an improved guide for c ross bar edging, 4 whereby the cross-bar unitingcord or head is directed to the needle of asewing machine with greatrapidity and accuracy, thereby Flowering the cost of manu- 1 iacture to a su'bstzintizildegree of articles to which cross-bar edgings are stitched and increasing the 'sigh'tline'ss and wearingqualr ties of the product.

The invention further contemplates the provision of an -edging guide oft-his characterfor Bon-Ton-Ivy 'sweat-bands-in connec-' tion with a sweatband'guide adjustable for diiferen-t widths'oi sweat-bands and the, provision of an u-ncurling device for the crossbar edging.

Another object'of this invention is to pro yide a Bon-Ton-Ivy sweat-band guide having means for firmly guiding the band past turbing the stitching position ofthe-ban "the point of seam-formation to avoid dis.

by the turning movement of the hat while the sweat-bane. is being stitched thereto.

Other objects of this invention will be ap-,

parent from the following description andclaims.

In its preferred embodiment, the present invention has been applied int-he :form 0f an attachment to a sewing machine having an edging feed-devicecomprising the combined action of a feeding-needle and} fe ur' motion upper feeding-foot. The attachment is adjustably secured to the cylindrical work-support. of the sewing machine and comprises an adjustable edge-guide-for Lone of the sweat-band mar-gins, an edge guijcle for the free head of the cross-bar edging,

an edge-guide for the welt-strip, a resilient finger adapted to ride upon the cross bars of theedging between the edge of the braid and the free bead, and also resilient mea-ns bearing upon the edging, for uncurling purposes, as it enters the guide.

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. iris a side elevation of portions of the cylindrical work-support and. overhanging farm of: a. sewing machine to which the improved guide has been attached, together with asin-filer view of the hat-support and showing in dot: dash lines a pos'ition occupied by the- 1m during the operation of; stitching a-BonJ-Ecin- Ivy sweat thereto. Fig. 2is an enlarged top 7 as. I

plan View ofthe sewing machine cylindrical 1 work support and-attached guide and illustrating its guiding action upon the sweatband. Fig. 3 is an end elevation, somewhat enla ged Q Q? Fig. 1,015 a portion of 7 action.

' guide substantially on the line cm of Fig.

2 and omitting the sweat-band.

Referrin to the drawings, only so much is shown of t e sewing machine to which the present improvement has been applied as is necessary to understand its application. There is, however, shown a cylindrical worksupport 1 and the usual head 2 of the overhanging arm, in which head the needle-bar 3' is mounted for vertical reciprocation and lateral vibration in the direction of the line of seamior1nation to assist in the feeding of the fabric being stitched by the action of the needle 4: carried by the needle-bar. Cooperating with the needle din the feeding of the work is a four-motion upper feedingfoot 5 carried by a feed-bar 6 to which operative movements may be imparted in any usual manner. It is not deemed essential to herein specifically describe the actuating mechanisms for the feeding-foot and the needle as any well known mechanism constructed for the purpose may be employed. A presser-foot 7 carried-by a presser-bar 8 serves the usual function in machines of this character, while a throat-plate 9 and its carrying plate 9"suitably attached thereto'are secured upon the cylindrical work-support 1 by meansof a screw 10. The throatplate in the present instance is provided with an elongated needle-aperture 11 while the edge of the plate 9' afiords an edge-guiding shoulder 12 partly cut away adjacent and rearward of the needle-aperture 11 to provide clearance for the pressenfoot'? and also to permit the hat to'be properly positioned during the stitching operation.

' Adjustably secured to the front side of the cylindrical work-support 1, by means of screws, as 13, is a bracket 14: to which is secured by screws, as 15, a supporting-plate 16 sustaining the primary elements of the present improved guide. Adjustably secured to the supporting-plate 16' by means of screws, as 17, passing through elongated apertures, as 18, is the base of a sweat-band guide 19 looped at one edge to afford an edge-guide 20" for one of the sweat-band margins M. The supporting-plate is provided with a guiding shoulder 21 in substantial alinement with the shoulder 12 of the plate 9'.

'Overhanging the shoulder 21 andspaced from the work-supporting portion or the plate16 is a sweat-band retainingplate 22 adjustably secured upon the supporting plate 16 by means of screws, as 23,entering elongated apertures, as 24, in the, plate The screws '15 for securing the supportingplate 16 to the bracket 14. are accessible by a block 27 in the present instance soldered therein, although it may be otherwise se cured or formed integrally therewith. Projec'ting from the block 27 is a resilient finger 28 having a rounded free end yieldingly urged by the resiliency of the finger to contact with the throat-plate at a point in ad Vance of and at one side of the line of seamformation. The flute 26 afi'ords clearance for the resilient finger 28, permitting the free end of the latter to move in transverse directions. The retaining plate 22 terminates at its delivery end or rearwardly of the flute 26 in a narrowed portion 29 having along one edge a downwardly depending edge-guiding flange 30. The portion 29 extends beyond the point of seam-formation and overlies the throat-plate, being spaced fromthe latter to afford a guiding passageway for the sweat-band.

A tension-shoe or edging unourling device is provided in the form of a flat-spring 31 curved upwardly at its outer end to facilitate entrance to the guide of theedging. The fiat-spring 31 is located at the entrance to the guide under the flute 26 of the retainingplate 22 and is formed with a laterally projecting shank 32 secured upon the supporting plate 16 by means of one of the screws 23.

As shown more particularly in Fig. 2, the Bon-Ton-Ivy sweat band, as commercially known, comprises a sweat-strip S to one of the margins of which is secured a welt-strip W in which there is inserted an elastic cord C. In the manufacture of the Bon-Ton-Tvy sweat-band the welt-strip is secured to the sweat-strip by means'of stitches which also secure a cross-bar edging. This cross-bar edging comprises a braid T from one margin of which project cross-bars D supported at their free ends by a uniting cord 13. The free edge of the braid T and the outer uniting-cord B together form ineifeot parallel. beads joined by the cross-bars. The resillent-finger 28 is positioned to yieldingly bear upon the cross-bars and guide the beads referred to, said finger as previously stated being positioned in advance and at one side of the line of seam-formation" to properly direct the outer bead B to the needle. Tn some in-stancesthebead 13 is secured to the hat by stitches penetrating the bead itself while in otherinstances, particularly when the bead is too small for penetration by the needle, the stitches lie closely adjacent the seam-formation, it is capable of adapting 1 hats.

itself to inequalities in. the edging, but by reason of its tendency to assume itsxnorma'l As the edging lies-on the throat-platein its passage to the needle the pressure of the-finger 28' is sustained by the throat-plate, thereby properly :tensioning the edging. Cooperating with the resilient finger vis .the yielding tension-shoe 31, which 'servestouncurl the edging as it enters the guide. Also cooperating with theiinger are theishould'ers .12

randQl which'togeth'er serve as anedge-guide with stitch-.formlng .mechan1sm,of a device for guiding to said st1tch form1ng mocha for the bead B of the cross-bar edging.

The welt-strip is guided by :the depending flange on the sweateretainingrp'late 22 and as the portion 29 and flange 30 extend beyond thepointof-seam-formation, the turning movements of the hat while the sweatband is being stitched thereto are ineffective to distort the sweat-band edging at the point of seam-formation.

In connection with this guiding arrangement there is provided a hat-support comprising a plate 33, partly cut away as at 34 to. provide clearance for the cylindrical work-support 1 of the sewing machine. Se-

cured to the under side of the plate 33 by screw-bolts, as 35, is apivot-bracket 36 having depending spaced ears, as 37, entered by the head of a rod 38, upon which the pivotbracket 36 is adjustably secured by means of the screw-bolt 39. The rod 38 is slidingly mounted in a bearing-sleeve 40. and is adjustably secured therein by means of the set-screw 41. The bearing-sleeve 40 -is carried by a supporting rod 42 adjustably secured in a base 43 by means of a set-screw 44:. It will be apparent that by meansof this construction of hat-support. the angular, horizontal and vertical positions of the hat supported thereby may be readily accommodated in accordance with the different requirements of varying sizes and shapes of .The feeding foot 5 the presser-foot 7 act upon the hat at the juncture of the side and brim portions as illustrated in Fig. 1, and the needle 4, which partakes of the feed ing movements of the feeding foot, acts upon the cross-bar edging to assist in feeding the same forwardly in timed relation with the feed of the hat during the stitching operation.

It is to be understood that the term Bon- Ton-Ivy asherein employed refers to a general typeof sweat-band as commercially known and is not tobe understood as merely (to the product of any particular manufacturer.

of a hat sustained by said workesupport, of

a device for guiding a sweat-hand having a cross-bar edging to said needle to secure the free head of the edging to the hatupon Y the side opposite to that engaged by said pressenfoot, said device including a guide .ior the free bead of the cross-bar edging comprising .a resilient finger; having a rounded portion disposed with respect to said work-support and said needle to tensionally engage the cross-bars of the edging adjacent the free bead thereof.-

251531 a sewing machine, the combination ing a resilient cross-bar edging guide-finger V r v and a sweat-band edge-guide arranged in spaced and parallel relation.

4:- In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism includguiding a cross-bar edging to said stitchforming mechanism including a resilient needle, of a device for directing to said .ing a needle, a work-support, work-feeding 1 means, and a presser-foot, of a device for.

with stitch-forming mechanism including a V stitch-forming mechanism a sweat-band having a cross-bar edging at one side thereof,-sa1d dev1ce'f1nc1udmg a resilient finger positioned to yieldingly bear upon and' guide said edging to said needle, an edgeguide for the side of the sweat-band opposite to the edging, and yielding means for uncurling the cross-bar edging preparatory ,ing. 7

to the action of said finger upon said edgstitch-forming mechanism for attachment" to a hat, comprising means for uncurling a cross-bar edging of the sweat-band, a resilient cross-bar edging guide-finger, and a welt-strip edge-guide.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination With a stitch-forming mechanism, of an attachment for guiding a sweat-band to said stitch-forming mechanism for attachment to a hat, comprising a sweat-band edgeguide, a cross-bar edging edge-guide, and a resilient finger constructed and arranged .to tension a cross-bar edging of said sweatband. I

8. In a sewlng machine, the combination with stitch-formlng mechanlsm, of a device for guiding a sweat-band to said stitchsilient finger for tension-guiding a crossbar edging of said sweat-band to said stitchforming mechanism,

9. An attachment for sewing machines for guiding a sweat-band to the stitch-forming mechanism of said machine, compri ing a supporting plate, a sweat-band edgeguide adjustably secured upon said supporting plate, a Welt-strip edge-guide also adjustably secured upon said supporting plate,

a resilient crossbar edging guiding finger,

and a spring-shoe for uncurling the edging preparatory to I the actionv of said finger upon said edging.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOHN J. DRAKE. 

